May 24, 2023
Planning a trip to Yakushima? Before you hit that "book now" button, allow me to share my firsthand experience and valuable insights that could save you both trouble and money.
From April 19 to April 23, 2023, I embarked on an adventure to this captivating island with my group of fellow adventurers. Yakushima boasts incredible hiking trails, including the renowned forest that served as the inspiration for Princess Mononoke. However, little did we know about the unique travel realities that awaited us, especially when it came to the frequent flight frustrations in Yakushima.
6 of 7 Flights Cancelled
Our carefully planned trip started with a flight from Tokyo to Kagoshima Airport, the gateway to Yakushima, on April 19. However, upon landing in Kagoshima, we were shocked to learn that all 6 previous flights to Yakushima had been canceled due to unexpected thick fog, and we had the 7th and final flight of the day. While flight cancellations during the typhoon season (from July to October) would be understandable, the notion of cancellations due to fog seemed absurd.
As the group leader, I approached the flight attendant stationed at the desk in front of the boarding gate to inquire about the situation. To my dismay, I discovered that the planes were departing from Kagoshima Airport, only to make several circles above Yakushima Airport before eventually returning to Kagoshima. Surprisingly, this had already happened six times that day. The nonchalant attitude of the flight attendants towards these cancellations left us bewildered.
Let's Give It a 7th Try?
(JAL, one of the largest airlines in Japan, operates propeller planes for the Kagoshima to Yakushima route)
Onboard the final flight of the day, a sense of nervous anticipation filled the air as we anxiously awaited the landing. I had secured a window seat, and as I peered outside, the sky was engulfed in thick fog, obscuring our view of the surroundings. The turbulence added to our unease, intensifying the suspenseful atmosphere. Just then, we noticed the pilot reaching for the intercom, signaling a critical moment.
Earlier, before takeoff, the pilot had informed us of the challenging conditions, cautioning that if they were unable to spot the runway upon descent, the flight would have to turn back. With this expectation in mind, every passenger held their breath as the flight attendant picked up the phone, her expression somber and her conversation punctuated by brief pauses. In that moment, my friends and I prepared ourselves for the worst, fully anticipating her to relay the news that landing was impossible and we would need to find accommodation at Kagoshima Airport and attempt the journey again the following day.
To our utmost astonishment, she calmly announced, "We are clear for landing. Please remain seated and fasten your seatbelts as we prepare to land." The absence of emotion in her voice and the stoic expression on her face were truly remarkable. It reminded me of a moment on a game show where the host would build suspense before revealing the correct answer. She seemed almost proud of herself for keeping every passenger on the flight guessing. It was a testament to the Japanese art of concealing emotions, something they are renowned for.
Departing Yakushima Proved to be Equally Challenging
We were fortunate to have enjoyed near-perfect weather during our hiking days, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the awe-inspiring prehistoric jungle that resembled scenes from Princess Mononoke.
However, as our return day, April 23, approached, we faced uncertainties. The flight we had booked carried the ominous label of a "chance of cancellation". During our last day, while visiting a coffee roaster near the ferry, we discovered that the ferry service had already been halted. Remarkably, the locals appeared unperturbed by these circumstances, treating them as mundane occurrences. To be honest, at this point, we weren't too surprised by their reactions.
Not Even a Single Backup Plane?
And so, we arrived at the airport filled with anticipation. After completing the check-in process, we joined a long line of people, all anxiously waiting for news. We were told that the only hope of leaving Yakushima rested on the planes from Kagoshima safely landing. We found ourselves in a familiar situation, reminiscent of April 19th. However, this time, we were on the other side of the experience, anxiously waiting for the plane to touch down. It dawned on us that on April 19th, when we flew into Yakushima, the first six planes were unable to land, leaving many passengers stranded on the island.
It really made us wonder why there were no backup planes in case of such situations. Japan, known for its preparedness and exceptional service, seemed to have a different set of standards in Yakushima.
To capture the heightened anticipation and share our genuine reaction, I invite you to watch the video below. It will transport you back to that pivotal moment when we discovered the outcome of the landing and enable you to experience our emotions firsthand.
Is This Even Japan?
Our journey to Yakushima revealed a distinct contrast to our past travel experiences within Japan. While accustomed to the precision and punctuality of trains and public transportation, the flight operations to Yakushima followed a unique set of rules and a different sense of time. It was a fascinating realization that flexibility and adaptability were essential when organizing trips to this remote island. Reflecting on our experience, I now understand the importance of exploring alternative accommodation options and minimizing potential cancellation fees for future planning.
Local Encounters
Despite the challenges we faced, our interactions with the locals of Yakushima were nothing short of remarkable. Their hospitality and omotenashi (Japanese-style hospitality) left a lasting impression.
On April 19, when our flight was delayed and we found ourselves without transportation, a kind lady who runs a rental car shop (Yakushima Airport Rental Car NAVI), went above and beyond by providing us with cars even after regular working hours. Her generosity saved the day and enabled us to explore the island.
During our exploration, we stumbled upon a delightful cake shop called Shingetsudo, where the friendly store staff shared insights into Yakushima's unique culture and traditions. Even though half of our group consisted of Japanese locals, they were pleasantly surprised by the distinctiveness of Yakushima compared to mainland Japan.
Additionally, while hiking to a scenic viewpoint inspired by Princess Mononoke, we had the pleasure of crossing paths with Teruya, a knowledgeable and friendly local guide who graciously offered expert photography advice, capturing stunning images and revealing fascinating aspects of Yakushima's natural wonders. It was an experience we would have otherwise missed, even though we were not his clients.
These encounters showcased the warmth and genuine hospitality of the people of Yakushima, adding a remarkable dimension to our journey.
In Conclusion, "To Yakushima Or Not To Yakushima"
If you value efficiency, dislike unexpected issues, and prefer a smooth travel experience, Yakushima might not be the ideal choice for you. However, if you're an adventurous spirit who embraces the unpredictability and appreciates the thrill of unexpected occurrences, then this island paradise could be your perfect match.